Source 1 (Book)
Richard Corson- Fashions in Makeup
In the Victorian Era the expectations for women was to keep a natural beauty with little to none 'Artifice'. In fact the use of Cosmetics angered alot of men and women, stating that the use of artificial hair and cosmetics was 'deceptive'. I fin d this extremely hypocritical, as the majority of men in that period used cosmetics themselves. The use of Cosmetics as a whole, in that time, was done so very subtly and secretively and was thought to be wrong if used at all.
This being said, the use of Cosmetics was still used by women. They used rouge on the cheeks made from Cochineal (A small insect from Brazil) or Safflower; these were the safest sources of red Pigment for Rouge. An alternative was Vermillion, which derived from a mercury compound and was alot cheaper but also harmful.
They used Powders as means for Whitening the skin of the face and neck. Starch was sometimes used, but the effect wasn't as good as they wanted it to be. They also used finely powdered light carbonate of Magnesia, powdered soapstone from Briancon, Venetian Chalk (a form of Talc), and
pearl Powders.
The Victorians coloured their eyebrows, and the ideal eyebrow should be 'well furnished with hair, moderately thick, curved, and form a line in the shape of the arch. The head should have more hair than the tail, and the numerous hairs should lie in and out'. They treated the eyebrows by using a soft toothbrush dipped in water with a little cologne. To colour the eyebrows black the used Gall nuts, oil, and Ammoniac salt with vinegar; they left this in overnight. For Brown brows they used lead filings, iron dust, and vinegar which they boil together and then brush it through the brows,
they also emphaisied their veins with Vetetian Chalk mixed in with Gum-water, oloured to the shade with Prussian Blue and applied with little leather pencils.
Source 2 (Book)
Aileen Ribeiro- Facing Beauty Painted Women & cosmetic art
'you will be puzzled as to the relative merits of blue eyes and black. brown and hazel; hair of golden hueand raven blackness, of classic coils and coquettish breeze- loved ringlets; of rose- bud mouths and full red lips'. This was a quote used as an example of Victorian natural beauty from a book called 'How to preserve good looks'. The Book also Goes on to use images to describe the beauty ideals, One Image in particular, referring to the sitter in it as the 'Rose'. "As the rose reigns over the bow'rs,/ So does thy beauty over the heart')is squeezed into a fashionably tight-waisted dress which emphasis her bust and hips; the rose was regarded as especially english and also feminine in scent and colour. They mention in How to preserve good looks of 'full red lips" The description of 'large eyes', 'Moonwhite Skin'. and 'flaming hair' frequently occurs as well.
Like Past beliefs, It was thought the pale skin symbolised nobility and wealth, so was very much desired. Some women used Zinc Oxide, a white mineral powder. But because of the decrease of cosmetics women had to be careful not to over-do it, so to protect their pale skin they tried to avoid fresh air and sunlight, or using a parasol whenever they had to be outside, some even drank vinegar as a way of preserving their skin.
Other methods of achieving a pale and translucent complexion involved lightly drawing on veins, to create the illusion of their skin being so fragile and delicate that their veins were visible. some would even go so far as to emphasise the dark circles beneath their eyes.
http://beautifulwithbrains.com/2010/08/06/beauty-in-the-victorian-age/
This being said, the use of Cosmetics was still used by women. They used rouge on the cheeks made from Cochineal (A small insect from Brazil) or Safflower; these were the safest sources of red Pigment for Rouge. An alternative was Vermillion, which derived from a mercury compound and was alot cheaper but also harmful.
They used Powders as means for Whitening the skin of the face and neck. Starch was sometimes used, but the effect wasn't as good as they wanted it to be. They also used finely powdered light carbonate of Magnesia, powdered soapstone from Briancon, Venetian Chalk (a form of Talc), and
pearl Powders.
The Victorians coloured their eyebrows, and the ideal eyebrow should be 'well furnished with hair, moderately thick, curved, and form a line in the shape of the arch. The head should have more hair than the tail, and the numerous hairs should lie in and out'. They treated the eyebrows by using a soft toothbrush dipped in water with a little cologne. To colour the eyebrows black the used Gall nuts, oil, and Ammoniac salt with vinegar; they left this in overnight. For Brown brows they used lead filings, iron dust, and vinegar which they boil together and then brush it through the brows,
they also emphaisied their veins with Vetetian Chalk mixed in with Gum-water, oloured to the shade with Prussian Blue and applied with little leather pencils.
Source 2 (Book)
Aileen Ribeiro- Facing Beauty Painted Women & cosmetic art
'you will be puzzled as to the relative merits of blue eyes and black. brown and hazel; hair of golden hueand raven blackness, of classic coils and coquettish breeze- loved ringlets; of rose- bud mouths and full red lips'. This was a quote used as an example of Victorian natural beauty from a book called 'How to preserve good looks'. The Book also Goes on to use images to describe the beauty ideals, One Image in particular, referring to the sitter in it as the 'Rose'. "As the rose reigns over the bow'rs,/ So does thy beauty over the heart')is squeezed into a fashionably tight-waisted dress which emphasis her bust and hips; the rose was regarded as especially english and also feminine in scent and colour. They mention in How to preserve good looks of 'full red lips" The description of 'large eyes', 'Moonwhite Skin'. and 'flaming hair' frequently occurs as well.
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| http://gb.fotolibra.com/images/previews/1064114-eugene-rimmel-almanack-1863.jpeg (Right image in particular) |
Source 3 (Website)
'The rise to the throne of Queen Victoria in 1837 marked the decline of the use of cosmetics. The Victorian Era was a time dominated by a strict moral code, religious values, modesty and sexual restraint. Therefore, during this period cosmetics were considered to be immoral, their use frowned upon and thought to be something that only women of dubious morals would wear. But that doesn't mean that ladies stopped using them altogether.'The only Exception to this 'no makeup' policy was Actresses and Prostitutes, who continued to wear strong makeup. This, however doesn't mean that women didn't wear makeup at all, they wore makeup with the intention of wanting to achieve a delicate, feminine and delicate appearance, With a pale, soft complexion and ringlets.
Like Past beliefs, It was thought the pale skin symbolised nobility and wealth, so was very much desired. Some women used Zinc Oxide, a white mineral powder. But because of the decrease of cosmetics women had to be careful not to over-do it, so to protect their pale skin they tried to avoid fresh air and sunlight, or using a parasol whenever they had to be outside, some even drank vinegar as a way of preserving their skin.
Other methods of achieving a pale and translucent complexion involved lightly drawing on veins, to create the illusion of their skin being so fragile and delicate that their veins were visible. some would even go so far as to emphasise the dark circles beneath their eyes.
http://beautifulwithbrains.com/2010/08/06/beauty-in-the-victorian-age/
